Spanish Farm Grows 500 Citrus Varieties to Beat Climate Change

A chef visiting Spain's east coast stumbled upon what he calls the "Garden of Eden," and what he found there could change the future of farming.

Matthew Slotover discovered the Todolí Citrus Foundation, the world's largest private citrus collection with over 500 varieties. The organic farm grows fruit most people have never heard of, including finger limes that burst with zesty pearls, Buddha's hands with edible peel but no juice, and dozens of Japanese varieties.

Slotover, who founded Toklas restaurant in London, was blown away. "I knew about oranges and lemons and limes and grapefruit," he said. "I didn't know about tangelos and finger limes and citrons and pomelo."

The farm started as a passion project by Vincente Todolí, the former Tate Modern director, with no commercial plans. He simply gave fruit to friends and a local ice cream maker. But when chefs discovered the collection, demand exploded across London's restaurant scene.

What makes this farm special goes beyond unique flavors. The foundation's technical director, Óscar Olivares-Fuster, says they're creating a genetic bank that could save citrus farming from climate change.

Instead of water-intensive artificial irrigation, they use ancient Arab practices with ditches and ponds. They skip pesticides completely, letting the Mediterranean climate and sea breeze do the work. The groves have become sanctuaries for frogs, goldfinches, bees, and songbirds that commercial farms wiped out with chemicals.

The Ripple Effect

The genetic diversity at Todolí could unlock crucial solutions. Olivares-Fuster is particularly excited about the trifoliate orange, a sharp fruit that sheds its leaves in winter and survives extreme cold.

Scientists could potentially transfer this cold-resistant trait to other citrus varieties. "Eventually, citrus will be grown north of the Pyrenees and we might struggle in the south," he said.

Spain is the world's largest fresh citrus exporter, but commercial farms face mounting climate challenges. This collection of hundreds of varieties gives researchers living examples of how citrus adapts to different conditions.

The farm now offers tours by appointment, welcoming visitors to see varieties like Valentine pomelo from California, calamansi from the Philippines, and the fragrant Borneo lumia. Each fruit represents not just unique flavors but potential genetic solutions.

What started as one chef's discovery is now connecting rare agricultural biodiversity with cutting-edge climate research, proving that saving forgotten varieties today could feed tomorrow's world.