Varanasi's 'Pink Art' Masters Keep Ancient Craft Alive

In the ancient city of Varanasi, artisans are keeping alive one of India's most delicate crafts: gulabi meenakari, the art of pink enamel work on precious metals.

National award winner Kunj Bihari Singh is one of the last masters of this luminous craft. He learned it through years of patient repetition, mastering the precise temperatures and layering techniques that make each piece glow with life.

"Gulabi meenakari is not just decoration; it is discipline," Singh says. "Every colour layer must settle perfectly into the metal."

The craft likely arrived from Persia centuries ago but evolved into something distinctly Indian in Varanasi. The signature pink enamel, traditionally made with gold oxide, gets fired at high temperatures until it fuses into the metal itself rather than sitting on top.

Creating each piece requires multiple artisans working in sequence. Designers sketch the patterns, engravers carve cavities into gold or silver, enamellers fill them with powdered metal oxides, and polishers bring out the final shine.

The process can take days or weeks depending on complexity. Artisans fire each color layer separately, sometimes repeating the process multiple times to achieve the perfect depth and translucence.

"The real test of quality is in the finish," Singh explains. "The shine should last, and the enamel should never crack."

The craft now holds a Geographical Indication tag, protecting its regional identity. Government programs like One District One Product have helped connect artisans with new buyers and exhibitions beyond Varanasi.

The Ripple Effect

The craft sustains entire families of specialized artisans in Varanasi. When someone orders a wedding necklace or temple idol, the work flows through designers, metalworkers, enamellers, stone setters, and polishers, each earning from their unique skill.

Young people are slowly returning to learn the craft as appreciation for handmade work grows. Demand remains strong for weddings, religious ceremonies, and special gifts where machine-made pieces simply cannot compare.

Rising material costs for gold and silver present challenges, but artisans are adapting. Some now work with silver more often, making the art accessible to middle-class buyers while maintaining the same exacting standards.

"Markets change, but handmade value does not," Singh says with quiet confidence.

As long as people seek something crafted with care and patience, Varanasi's pink enamel art will continue glowing in the hands of those who treasure it.